This car has been waiting to be restored for over ten years. It had previously been repaired with extensive use of fiberglass. The car has been completely stripped down with the wiring harness and steering gear being the only things left intact. When complete, it will have all matching body numbers with the exception of the left front fender. Sometimes there is just no getting around hitting a deer. The damage was exclusive to the fender only. No other repairs were needed. It will be done in Aga Blue as matched off of the dashboard near the factory marking of the body number.
(Click on any image below to view larger size.)
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- This is the car as it sat for years. The blue trunk hood was scrapped due to the original being in very good shape after stripping.
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- The car had been taken apart to a point years ago. We have been finding all of the parts so far.
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- When the body is stripped, I then fit all of the body panels to see how they really fit. This taillight area had been pushed in about 12mm.
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- The factory markings will remain intact. This is the only good section to get the color match from. It looks perfect.
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- The whole corner of the light box had fiberglass all over it.
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- It was rebuilt piece by piece.
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- The rear parcel shelf is a very common area to need replacement. Sealant was not typically used when installing the windows and leaking was a common problem.
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- Repairing this corner completes the repair for this side.
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- This corner is an area that also suffers from water leaks. It can get underneath but not show up years. It is a joint that had been factory leaded and the lead does not rust. The rust has to work its way to the edge of the lead before it becomes apparent.
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- All surfaces underneath are treated before a repair is done on top. The windows will be installed with sealant to help prevent future leaks.
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- The body is cut away to get at the body on both sides to hammer it back into shape.
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- The removed body section was reshaped and welded back in place. Additional pieces were made to complete the repair.
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- The jack point/rocker panel is another common rust repair area. This area is open to the rear wheel well opening and subject to water and salt. It is also difficult to get undercoating all of the way in there.
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- This replacement panel is zinc coated.
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- The factory rear quarter panel ends right in the area that rusts out. A small section must be fabricated to join the new rocker panel to the rear quarter panel.
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- This is also another area where lead was used. Very little body work is needed to finish this repair.
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- After the rockers are done the floor can go in.
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- After the rockers are done the floor can go in.
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- After the rockers are done the floor can go in.
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- Another place rust is generally found.
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- This is the rear panel that helps hold debris coming off of the front tire. It cannot be up against the outside skin but must maintain a very tight profile as it can interfere with the body when mounted.
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- All exterior metal work is butt welded.
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- The welds are ground flush.
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- This is the fender mounted back on the car. Looks good.
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- Here the body is completely assembled. As you can see, the original trunk hood looks fine. Replacement H4 headlights are test fit with the gasket.
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- The underside is painted and then undercoated.
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- After finish body work, it’s time for some epoxy primer followed by high build primer and guide coat.
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- The front fenders were sent out for chemical stripping and e-coating to protect the crevices from future corrosion.
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- They are primed and guide coated to get them to the same point as the body.
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- These are the seat pans, blasted and ready for paint. All aspects of the project are kept moving. Parts are out for chrome so everything can be assembled when the time comes.
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- This is a perfect example of how the guide coat works in the blocking process. The panel is carefully blocked until all of the red guide coat is sanded away.
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- Here is the result of the first blocking. The door on the left had to go down and expose a little epoxy primer to get it straight. Another high build primer will be applied for final blocking and wet sanding to insure a perfectly straight panel.
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- The bumper deco’s are fit before the first block sanding. As you can see, they are not shaped correctly from the supplier.
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- The fitting can be a tedious process. This needs to be done before finish paint or you will just scratch up your new paint. Now the parts can be finish sanded and painted.
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- Here the car is remasked for final paint.
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- The next day the body is completely color sanded to remove any orange peel.
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- After color sanding, the body is remasked again and undercoated.
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- The gas tank has been cleaned, pressure checked and coated. Fresh undercoating and gray paint finishes it off.
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- The body is left color sanded for four weeks to let the paint thoroughly dry, then polished.Once polished, assembly can start. Sorting and checking the electrical system is the easiest when there is nothing else in the way. Sometimes new wires need to be run through the chassis.
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- The front bumper is assembled and mounted in place.
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- The Dynamat is installed in the back half. The vinyl interior panels have arrived along with the headliner. The carpet is on back order from Germany. The parcel shelf and side panels will be test fit before the carpet goes in.
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- The rear bumpers are assembled and carefully bolted in place with the license plate panel and bumper guards.
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- After waiting for parts, the suspension is done.
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- The headliner is stretched in place and left like this for a week before gluing in place.
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- The dash pad goes on before the gauges to give you access during the installation. The wiring and bulbs are checked at this stage
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- Here the headliner has been glued.
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- The steering wheel just came back from getting new walnut added. A complete test fit insures no complications later.
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- The front piece with the storage pocket goes in ahead of the sill. The bound edge of the sill piece finishes off the seam between the two.
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- With the side panels checked and removed, the carpet can be installed. All pieces must be laid out first to determine the order in which they must be installed.
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- Once I have all of the main pieces in place, I work back to front installing the remaining pieces.
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- The back is now complete. The seat belt anchor points are some of the details that were done in the fitting stage. At final assembly, it all just goes together. No cutting, drilling or welding to risk damaging the material.
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- The door stay and latch mechanism’s are mounted before the door goes on. Dynamat will go on before assembly is complete.
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- Like the other panels, the door cards were mounted first with the doors laying flat to insure a nice fit. After the window frame assembly is installed the door card goes on with ease.
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- With the wheels refinished, the car is ready to go out for the engine and transmission.
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- Over the winter the drive train will be installed. After test drives in spring, I will get it back to do final carpet details and to detail the body for the final time. It is due back here in spring. Stay tuned.
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- Some final shots of the completed project.
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- Some final shots of the completed project.
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- A 911S looking motor built to different specs. The motor and transmission were not done by Paintwerks.
